Shaving face

Saturday 1st December 2001

What's a rugged Kiwi bloke to do? Outclassed on the footy field, lampooned in every other TV commercial as incompetent or worse and living in a country led by a woman. Well, if you can't beat 'em ...

A recent study commissioned by Beiersdorf New Zealand, manufacturers of the Nivea skincare range, found one in three New Zealand men are prepared to consider using facial products in the future. With a $1 million marketing campaign promoting products such as shaving gel for sensitive skin, double-action face wash, exfoliating scrub and moisturising lotion, the new Nivea target audience is made up of sporty white-collar professional males. While New Zealand men may not be quite ready to follow their Japanese counterparts - in Japan, men tweeze their eyebrows and slap on mudpacks and cleansing gels to the tune of $US1.1 billion a year - they're not totally opposed to new cosmetic and personal care items.

The New Zealand male grooming market is worth around $22 million a year in retail sales, according to the New Zealand Grocers Review, and that's not taking into account the "lunchtime lift" market for mini-surgery and cosmetic procedures. Pop along to your local beauty therapy salon in just about any inner city suburb and you'll find men with their hands delicately resting in little tubs of water, preparing to have their nails filed and shined. Or spend a day at Auckland's exclusive Spa de Serville and you'll invariably share the space with relaxed men being fluffed and buffed. Spa de Serville's business manager Jason Greiving says men now make up 40% of its business. And while waxing and massage are its most popular treatments, hair colouring, manicures and facials are in increasing demand. "There's been a real change in New Zealand men over the last two years," says Greiving, "Fathers' Day is shaping up to be one of our busiest times of the year, and the upper-income male client is fast becoming our primary target market."

Gus McKay, menswear designer for Crane Brothers, says that manicures are good for more than just nails. "It's part of my relaxation itinerary," he says, adding that although he exfoliates and uses a product to unclog pores, he stops short of foundation and mascara.

But internationally, where a male baby boomer turns 50 every 15 seconds, men are not limiting themselves to just the basics. Fortune magazine recently reported that men now spend some $US9.5 billion a year on anti-aging expedients including facelifts, antiwrinkle creams and collagen injections. (Collagen, for the uninitiated, is injected into your lips to produce that authentic Melanie Griffith-style pout.)

At the Palm Clinic, Auckland's top specialist appearance medicine centre, practice manager Karen Crawford says that many of its appearance medicine patients are men. "Men particularly appreciate procedures that require no time off work. Whether it's varicose or facial veins, or collagen or Botox [zap those forehead wrinkles with a strain of botulism that paralyses facial muscles] treatments they can be in and out in less than an hour."

Maggie Eyre, whose corporate advice service at Encore Communications includes individual mentoring, presentation and grooming, says 55% of impact is visual. Nasal hair, chipped nails, escaping chest or ear hair definitely hamper effective communication, she says. "Given that 95% of a corporate manager's time is spent in communication, image is critical." Use a good moisturiser, Eyre advises, and indulge in regular facials to mitigate the damage caused by shaving.

But what do women think about their men doing more than a simple shower, shave and deodorant? Rachel White, a former publishing assistant now living in Paris, reckons it's about time Kiwi guys got it together. Her advice: start with the basics. "If you take care of your hair, hands, teeth and shoes then you'll at least get a date." Jodie, an Auckland multi-dater, says she regularly advises her partners on their grooming. "I tell them a good manicure does not a poofter make."

And as for older New Zealand men? Max McGeady is a retired civil servant from Napier who happily describes himself as an avid armchair sports enthusiast. When told men are lining up for manicures and wearing makeup to the office he looks aghast. "Now I know why we're losing the rugby," he says as he changes the channel.

Are you well groomed?

Take the Unlimited quiz. Score one point for an A answer, two points for B, three for C

How often do you shower and/or shave?

A Every single day, even weekends and holidays
B Most days, except sometimes in the weekend
C Just when I think I need to

Do you use a nose-hair remover?

A Daily
B Sometimes
C Never seen one

Do you have skin tags?

A Are you kidding?
B Only under my arms
C Who's looking?

Have you considered having them removed?

A Already had them done
B Perhaps
C What are skin tags?

Do you trim hair sprouting from your ears?

A Every few days
B When my partner complains
C Can't see inside my ears

Do you use a deodorant?

A A few times a day
B At least once a day
C Maybe after heavy exercise

Have you ever left itching toes (fungus) untreated for more than six months?

A Never
B Sometimes
C That's a fungus?

You visit your dental hygienist ...

A Once a month
B Once or twice a year
C I don't need too - it's her breath that smells, not mine

Do you use a moisturiser?

A Religiously
B Often
C That stuff is for sissies

You find out your best friend had an eye-lift. Would you:

A Compare results
B Think about it, research it and discuss it with my partner
C Pretend I didn't notice, but joke about it with my mates

How much time do you spend each day grooming?

A More than 60 minutes
B 30-60 minutes
C Less than 10 minutes

Results

0-12

Adonis wannabe

You may have a problem, crossing the line from normal interest to pathological obsession. Take a week off and let it all grow back, sniff under your arms occasionally and remind yourself that you're a man not a mannequin. A little rugged edge can do a guy good.

12-24

Urban cowboy

You're the quintessential smell good, feel good guy. If you're still single you must have a serious personality disorder.

24-plus

Unreconstructed moron

You know who you are. If you have any friends it's a wonder they haven't sent you a hint from www.justatip.com. But don't be afraid. A little self-love goes a long way. Start small and before you know it you'll be trading that rugby ball for an emery board.

Barbara Sumner-Burstyn
verb8m@sympatico.ca

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